say spahhh

How to wind down in West Hollywood

A composite image of West Hollywood, including the Pendry Hotel rooftop pool, drag laureate Pickle, and the Sunset Strip.
(from left) Pendry Hotel rooftop pool, West Hollywood drag laureate Pickle, and the Sunset Strip. Photos courtesy of Pendry Hotel, Matthew Wexler, and Visit West Hollywood.

Confession: I’ve stuffed my share of dollar bills into go-go boys’ jockstraps at The Abbey in my day. But West Hollywood, which celebrates its 40th anniversary as an incorporated city, offers more than iconic nightlife. (Though there’s plenty if that’s what you’re looking for.) Here’s how I made the most out of my 48-hour reboot in the heart of queer California — West Hollywood’s two-square-mile gem perfect for walking, napping, and just a wee bit of indulgence. 

A five-star retreat at Pendry West Hollywood

A gif of photos from Pendry Hotel, West Hollywood

For modern amenities with glamorous flair, Pendry West Hollywood delivers a blockbuster experience fitting of a town known for its paparazzi. Don’t be fooled by the Sunset Boulevard address, though. The property offers a serene escape from the buzz outside, thanks to interior designer Martin Brudniski’s laidback California glamour, which finds inspiration from Los Angeles at dusk and ocean waves. 

Artist Anthony James’s icosahedron lobby sculpture is the Instagram moment you didn’t know you needed until you’re mesmerized by its geometric reflections. The rooms and suites, by contrast, are awash in deep blues and gold, with mid-century touches and a touch of leopard print for good measure. 

Request a room with southern exposure to capture the full West Hollywood experience. Or better yet, plant yourself at the rooftop pool and never leave. While not Olympic-size, it certainly gives off gold medal energy with daybeds available for rental and an adjacent culinary outpost by famed chef Wolfgang Puck, which gives off Golden Girls vibes in the best way possible. 

Expect elevated onsite amenities like a gorgeous spa and 24/7 fitness center, along with a class hotel bar and intimate music venue, The Sun Rose—a 100-seat club featuring acts ranging from legendary jazz musicians to stand-up comedy. 

But one of Pendry’s most exciting perks is its partnership with luxury automaker Cadillac. Reserve a complimentary, brand-new model to buzz around town for up to four hours to explore the city like a true Los Angelina — is there a more luxurious way to be stuck in traffic?

With 13 properties from Punta Mita to Park City and more on the horizon, the boutique sister brand to Montage redefines the luxury space with attention to detail and a relaxed, welcoming vibe. And with luxury residences right next door, you never know what A-listers might appear. 

Spa day at Bamford Wellness

Bamford Spa couples treatment room
Table for two? Bamford Spa’s couples treatment room. Photo courtesy of Visit West Hollywood.

Stroll down Sunset Boulevard to 1 Hotel West Hollywood, and you’ll discover Bamford Wellness Spa — a kiss of the English countryside amid the bustle of LA entertainment executives. A passion project for Lady Carole Bamford (wife of British billionaire Anthony Bamford), the brand celebrates its 20th anniversary and has become known for its treatment protocols rooted in sustainability. 

I opt for the West Hollywood Mind+Body package, which includes a bespoke Bamford body massage, a 50-minute awakening facial (much-needed after a flight from New York City), and a welcome dose shot — a detoxifying elixir with turmeric and milk thistle. 

Part of West Hollywood’s Mind + Body Month (through September 30), Bamford’s serene setting provides the ideal backdrop to recharge and rejuvenate amid the energizing offerings throughout the city’s nearly two-square-mile footprint. Other offerings include a Himalayan salt stone massage, detoxifying facial, multi-treatment destress package, infrared sauna sessions, and a new Icon facial, which features NanoFusion technology and a sculpting facial massage using gua sha techniques, which dates back more than 2,000 years. 

Of course, “mind and body” means different things to different people, and while I’m perfectly content to lay on a treatment table and be spoiled for several hours, others might want to break a sweat. 

West Hollywood’s fitness and wellness offerings extend beyond high-end hotel packages. Drop into a class at Barry’s (the OG HIIT workout), work your core at BuiltRx Pilates, or take a peek into your future with an astrology or angel reading at Crystalarium

Kick it into high gear without breaking a sweat with Bikes and Hikes LA

A composite image of Cyndi Lauper and author Matthew Wexler, photographed at Sunset Marquis in West Hollywood.
(top to bottom) Cyndi Lauper photographed at West Hollywood’s famous Sunset Marquis. The author pays homage to the pop icon. Photos by Matthew Wexler for GayCities.

Short on time but wanting to get a lay of the land, the Bikes and Hikes LA team set me up with a West Hollywood bike tour. Still, I barely broke a sweat thanks to the easy-to-operate e-bike that whisked me among the bungalows, storied locales, and celebrity sitings for which the city is known. 

Typical bike tours range from three to five hours, and I managed to fit in plenty. Highlights include the Sunset Marquis, the legendary hotel known for welcoming the music industry’s biggest names. Even if you haven’t booked a villa, it’s worth meandering among the grounds to discover archival photos, enjoy an al fresco bite at Cavatina, or sneak a peek at the onsite Nightbird Recording Studio. 

If you want to take a piece of the entertainment industry home, head down an inconspicuous alley off of Sunset Boulevard to discover Mystery Pier Books, considered one of the most important first-edition bookshops in the US. LGBTQ+ authors abound, including collectible copies of works by James Baldwin, Michael Chabon, and more.

The entertainment industry defines Los Angeles, but few outside of the city know that West Hollywood is home to its own film studio, The Lot at Formosa. A quick stop on the tour may offer a glimpse of filmmakers in action as well as a bit of history for TV buffs — the lot (under different ownership over the years) served as the filming location for Some Like It Hot, West Side Story, and cantina scenes from the original Star Wars

Casa Madera: Elevated dining on the Sunset Strip

Casa Madera at Mondrian Hotel Los Angeles
Casa Madera West Hollywood. Photo courtesy of the Mondrian Hotel Los Angeles.

West Hollywood, known for its bars, lounges, and nightlife, has become a culinary destination with dozens of dining options, from quick bites to rooms with a view. If the latter piques your interest, head to Casa Madera, located within Mondrian Los Angeles

Riviera Maya migrates west for this outpost of coastal Mexican cuisine, with a serene view to unwind after a day of exploring. Playful cocktails nod to the spirit of choice — tequila — but also riff on bar classics such as the Casa Madera Old Fashioned, featuring apple palm sugar bourbon. 

The dinner menu can be as decadent as you desire, with first courses ranging from hamachi crudo with serrano chile to A5 Tajima Wagyu beef with whiskey barrel-aged soy and the lightest sprinkle of triple inferno salt. The menu also features three of the world’s hottest peppers: Naga Jolokia, Trinidad Scorpion, and Carolina Reaper. 

Entrees tend to feature imposing cuts of beef, from a 40-oz. tomahawk steak to a center-cut ribeye. However, side dishes can also take center stage, such as crispy Brussels sprouts with yuzu, esquites (traditional Mexican roasted corn), and parmesan truffle fries for a guilty pleasure.

Don’t feel guilty about checking out the crowd, though. Expect a room full of diners who dress to be seen. Banquettes alternate direction for people-watching (request a window-facing location to take in the glorious view), and on my visit, a roaming guitarist, replete with tattoos, shaggy hair, and a mischievous smile, meandered about flicking his strings and whetting my appetite for more than the bourbon butter toffee cake. 

When to visit West Hollywood

West Hollywood Pride
WeHo Pride. Photo: Shutterstock.

While I chose a weekend getaway that felt off the grid even though I was in California’s queer mecca, some travelers might want to dive into the epicenter of the action during one of the city’s signature events. Mark your calendar for these WeHo happenings:

Halloween Carnaval — Head to Santa Monica Boulevard and N. San Vicente Boulevard for a feast of the senses, including wild costumes, live DJ, food trucks, and revelry. 

Eat + Drink Week — The annual event each November offers affordable options to explore some of West Hollywood’s most popular restaurants.

WeHo Pride — A packed weekend includes a parade, festival, street fair, dyke march, visual art, and performances. 

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