Located on a large island off the West Coast of Canada, Victoria, BC, is known for its idyllic gardens, storybook-like buildings, and, until recently, its unofficial slogan, “Home of the newlywed and nearly dead.”
Like its Royal namesake, Victoria used to have a reputation for being stuffy and old-fashioned, but that’s changing. As Canada’s most gender-diverse city, Victoria is experiencing a queer renaissance of sorts, with a large expansion of LGBTQ+-owned businesses and a thriving drag scene.
Home to gorgeous beaches and lush temperate rainforest, this medium-sized city with a small-town feel offers an inclusive environment in a stunning natural setting perfect for gay travelers.
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Here’s how to spend a few delightfully queer days in Victoria, BC – according to a local.
Stay at a one-of-a-kind hotel.
For a queen-worthy stay, book a room at the Fairmont Empress. This iconic waterfront hotel epitomizes classic luxury and has hosted everyone from British Royalty to Ginger Rogers and Barbara Streisand. If you’re in the mood to splurge, stay on one of the Fairmont Gold suites — this hotel within a hotel boasts a separate check-in, exclusive common areas, and an extensive 24-hour pantry.
Budget travelers will love the recently renovated Hotel Zed – a colorful retro motel designed for “rebels against the ordinary.” Located a 5-minute drive outside of downtown, this budget-friendly option is perfect for queer travelers who enjoy their accommodations with a side of camp. I highly recommend booking one of their 1980s rooms with a disco ball and neon flamingo lamp on the bedside table.
Eat your heart out at one of the city’s many restaurants.
With more restaurants per capita than any other city in Canada, Victoria has something for every kind of foodie – from mouthwatering street food to world-class fine dining.
For brunch, grab a bite at Shanzee’s Biscuits, a homey spot in Old Town known for its freshly baked biscuits and hearty breakfasts. Next, visit Canada’s oldest Chinatown to try Dumpling Drop, a queer woman-owned Thai restaurant known for its delectable dumplings and fiery homemade chili sauce.
If you’re craving a burger, check out Deadbeetz (order a side of beet chips, and you won’t regret it) or Kahuna Burger for Hawaiian-inspired eats – both are LGBTQ+-owned. And don’t forget to try the local seafood while in town. Head to Ferris’ Upstairs Seafood and Oyster Bar or Fish Hook, a casual eatery that serves seafood favorites with a French-South-Asian twist.
Check out LGBTQ+-owned businesses in Old Town and hit the “ale trail.”
If you wear glasses, you’ll love Goo Goo Goggles, an LGBTQ+-owned optical store specializing in genderless eyewear. You’ll find friendly staff and a mix of unique and vintage frames here. While you’re in the area, stop by the queer-friendly Belle General Store, a mostly vegan snack and gift shop (think: a bougie 7/11).
Next, wander over to Old Town, a historic section of downtown known for its quaint architecture, and Market Square – an outdoor shopping mall housed in a 19th-century building that was once a gathering place for sailors, lumberjacks, and whalers seeking R&R during their days off.
Victoria has numerous award-winning craft breweries that are part of BC’s “ale trail.” Start at Whistle Buoy in Market Square and explore several others within walking distance, including Herald Street Brew Works and Swift Brewing Good Time Tasting Room – a 1970s rumpus room-themed brewpub.
Enjoy a round of shafts.
If you need a pick-me-up, try Victoria’s signature cocktail, the Shaft, a Kahlua and coffee concoction that predates the rise of the espresso martini. Although it was originally developed in Calgary, Victorians have claimed it as their own, with each bartender adding their twist.
Get inked at one of the city’s LGBTQ+-owned tattoo and piercing studios.
Tattoos and piercings are part of the culture here and you can’t go anywhere in Victoria without seeing the work of some of the city’s talented artists. Proper Poke is a queer-owned studio that offers eco-friendly piercing and tattoo services. Other LGBTQ+-owned spots to check out include Tough Pup Tattoo Shop and Elemental Body Adornment.
Soak up the city’s burgeoning drag scene.
Victoria is proudly home to RuPaul’s Drag Race All-Stars winner, Jimbo, known for hosting epic afterparties at his Chinatown studio whenever he rolls through town.
If you can’t wait that long, head to Friends of Dorothy Lounge (FOD) to watch their weekly drag show, which features a mix of visiting and homegrown drag talent. Located in Old Town, the restaurant lounge features soaring ceilings, exposed brick, and a stunning mural of Marie Antoinette that anchors the small stage.
Since opening in 2020, FOD has become very popular, so if you plan on visiting during the weekend, be sure to reserve your table in advance.
Take in happy hour at the Vicious Poodle.
No trip to Victoria is complete without a visit to the Vicious Poodle – a hub for the city’s queer social scene. Opened recently, it has quickly become a popular meeting spot and performance venue.
Designed to be an incubator for queer art, the cozy restaurant/bar is adorned with large black and white mugshot portraits of Victoria’s drag performers and Poodle regulars, like Eddi Licious and Canada’s Drag Race alum Vivian Vanderpuss. In addition to drag brunch, the bar hosts theme nights, including monthly sapphic and leather events.
With a full food menu and zero pretension, it’s the perfect place to grab a bite or drink with friends. I recommend their Frozen Shaft – a crushed ice version of Victoria’s favorite cocktail.
Last week, I checked out happy hour at the Vicious Poodle and it didn’t disappoint. As the evening morphed into karaoke night, I watched with amusement as a fresh-faced twenty-something performed Kim Petras’ “Throat Goat” and a man in his sixties belted out a moving rendition of “The Tennessee Waltz” – all within 5 minutes.
It’s a scene that sums up Victoria perfectly: a quirky place where old meets new and everyone is welcome.
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