There is a house in New Orleans—not the one they call the Rising Sun—that’s another story. This one is called the Country Club. But it’s not the ultra-restrictive type you might expect; instead, it’s the opposite: an inclusive enclave that caters to LGBTQ+ people.
It can be found behind the historic white columns of an 1884 mansion, deep within one of the city’s oldest French faubourgs.
The dress code lies between Steel Magnolias linen suits with silk bowties and flowy Pricilla, Queen of the Desert kimonos over Tom Ford swim trunks. Either is welcomed and appropriate, but only if the wearers are beautifully turned out and possess perfect manners.
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That’s both fantasy and reality — Southern gay gentility at its finest. It’s all about verandas and humidity, seersucker mixed with a bit of hedonism, gourmet food, and a drink shaker filled with a jaunty Ponchatoula Porch Sipper.
The Country Club is the LGBTQ+ place for brunch, luncheon, cocktails, bar food, or fine dining. It’s also the destination for pool shenanigans, club music, jazz, and tanning with craft cocktails in hand—the drinks presentations are unique, high-end, and worth the trip. Expect your Aperol spritz to be crafted to an exacting standard, whether served poolside or on the front porch. It’s all akin to a gay New Orleans Palm Royale and equally fabulous.
The Club’s atmosphere has altered somewhat since its earlier, wilder days, but its cache remains intact.
But, it’s still the place to be seen in gay New Orleans; the perfect fit for married legislators just in for a weekend of high-class dining and drinks, the newly single looking for respite, or those seeking a very social scene. It’s also a discreet Hollywood South hangout. What goes on at the Country Club stays at the Country Club — ok, several cast members of AHS watched series episodes at the bar, and a certain Knowles sister enjoys the Key West resort vibe.
The Bywater neighborhood compound has been both infamous and famous, but like most clubs post-COVID, it’s much calmer now. And, while it’s still a de riqueur stop when visiting the city, clothing-optional permissiveness is a thing of the past; trunks must be worn, and femme identities require a top of sorts (state law).
The Country Club Restaurant and Bar
The Country Club restaurant is a destination unto itself and can be measured alone, regardless of the private club out back. The ambiance of the dining rooms with their Cindy Mathis magnolia, lily, bird of paradise murals, and grass wallpaper evokes comparison to the spirit and decor of the old-line Virginia Greenbriar resort.
Chef Chris Barbato, formerly of New Orleans’ historic, top-tier restaurant Commander’s Palace, serves elegant and perfectly executed fare. Barbato’s menu includes intensely flavored saffron-steamed mussels, griddled Norwegian salmon, filet mignon, authentic pasta puttanesca, truffle mac-and-cheese, and a diverse medley of gluten-free and vegan offerings.
The menu also features southern classics such as fried green tomatoes, fresh-grilled Gulf shrimp, blue crab mascarpone beignets, fried catfish in a Creole remoulade, and Boudin Boulettes—that’s slightly Cajun French for spicy Boudin Balls.
When asked about his favorite dish, he surprisingly waxes on for several minutes about his black Angus burger—his favorite menu item—served on the real deal: an egg-rich French bakery Brioche bun with lemony garlic aioli and hand-cut fries.
A recent visitor from California could not help but expound on the depth of flavor in his luncheon choice, repeatedly saying he couldn’t believe he found the best chilaquiles verde of his life in New Orleans.
Other popular dishes are the Asian-inspired fried sticky sesame cauliflower bites. Small plates, which are not at all small, can be ordered at the bar, pool, or in the main dining spaces. Deserts are also a foodie and influencer destination; the featherlight layers of the summer lemon tiramisu crafted by Pastry Chef Lisa Barbato had passing guests gasping and begging for a taste and its name.
The Country Club offers a wide range of culinary and drink options, from fine dining to brunch, bar food, and happy hour. You can dine or drink inside, at the bar, pool club, or all three.
You’ve likely heard about the drag brunch. It’s the famous one, and some say it’s the best in New Orleans; popular for its entertainment factor, outsized waitstaff personalities, and star-quality menu.
“We have two drag shows each Saturday and Sunday, with three performers who roam through the dining areas in beautiful costumes with high kicks,” said manager Bert McComas. “We also get a lot of bridal and birthday parties.”
Drag Brunch guests must be over age 21, with reservations secured several months in advance. If lucky, you might snag a last-minute spot at the darkly lit but glamorous bar overlooking neon-enhanced Louis St Louis artworks.
The private pool club
The pool club has a lux hotel resort-style garden with an under-the-frond oasis vibe. The locker area offers a steam room, dry sauna, lockers, private showers, and changing areas, and is newly renovated. The décor level is high and worthy of House Beautiful.
Couple and neighbors Daniel Burton and Jonathan Cothern live close by and consider the Country Club an extension of their living room. The professionals participate in trivia night held by Drag Queen Katrina Waters and might be seen heading past the concierge desk toward the pool for a late-night dip. They partake of the yearly membership option and even host birthday parties at the Club.
“It’s fun; to me, it’s a type of free house,” said Cothern. “The pool fills up in the summertime with every kind of person, trans, etc. Absolutely everyone’s accepted.”
The couple also agree that the Club is a comfortable place for tourists still in the closet, where they can be themselves without fear or repercussion, and it’s a great way to get an overview of the real people of New Orleans.
“The front of the house is different than the back, and it’s also different vibes at different times,” said Burton. “It’s interesting; although covered up, you still walk down the hall with your swimsuit. You make your entrance. Daytime Saturday and Sunday is when it’s really happening.”
History is still happening
A recent restoration has left the property in top shape. This is due to the Club’s latest owner, a mysterious New York benefactor with deep pockets and exquisite taste. We’re only allowed to convey that he’s a gentleman who loves New Orleans and has strongly supported the gay community for several decades, but no matter, the staff and locals seem to adore him; that is enough.
The Country Club means a lot to many locals and plays a part in the LGBTQ+ community, including its rainbow-hued float in the Pride parade.
The center-hall cottage began as a gay resort in 1977, at the height of the disco era, which makes the sound of Gloria Gaynor singing over the palms all the more poignant.
Originally built as a family home for English immigrant George B. Canby, a humble stevedore whose fortunes rose in the post-Civil War cotton trade, the Italianate center hall was abandoned to neglect for decades after WWII. Later, it served as a boarding house of less-than-good repute and, even later, a taxi headquarters before finding its current footing as a renowned restaurant and club.
Like the cigarette ads of old, the house has “come a long way, baby.”
Pool Club membership charges a daily fee of $20 for access. It features the heated or chilled saltwater pool—depending on the weather—the outdoor bar, cabana grill, lounge chairs, outdoor showers, a hot tub, and access to the locker area amenities, changing room, and other facilities.
The restaurant/bar/day resort is not an inn; you can spend the day there but not the night.
Two important New Orleans travel tips
Always pack a navy blazer, tie, and monogrammed thank you notes.
New Orleans cares less about what you do but how you do it — with style and manners.
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