How two legendary lesbians inspired a culinary oasis in the California desert

Alice B. Toklas and Gertrude Stein knew how to throw a party. The couple met in Paris, fell immediately in love, and became known for their creative salons, which welcomed Ernest Hemingway, Edith Sitwell, and Henri Matisse, among others. Their relationship and the cornucopia of culinary delights they presented to guests serve as inspiration for Alice B., a new restaurant in the heart of Palm Springs. 

A collaborative effort between James Beard award-winning chefs and restaurateurs Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken and helmed by executive chef Lance Velasquez, Alice B.’s location is as unique as its inspiration. The restaurant is located within Living Out, a new apartment community for the 55+ LGBTQ+ community. 

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Developed by Loren Ostrow and Paul Alani, Living Out sits on nine acres amid Palm Springs’ picturesque landscape. But what’s happening on the inside is getting even more notice. 

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“Knowing that too many LGBTQ+ seniors live in unsafe or even openly hostile environments, we wanted to address this issue that is near and dear to us,” said Ostrow and Alani. “We have done so by creating a safe and beautiful community that meets the unique needs of our seniors as we begin the next chapter of our lives.”

Living Out’s nine-acre footprint captures stunning views of the San Jacinto, Santa Rosa, and San Gorgonio Mountains, but for the Stonewall Generation, who has lived through the decades-long fight for equal rights, the inclusive environment is what’s truly awe-inspiring. 

A fitness center, massage studio, screening room, and a collection of indoor gathering spaces (including a community room, game room, and art studio) contribute to a quality of life for queer older adults looking to embrace and bolster their family of choice.  

A meal decades in the making

Feniger and Milliken have been business partners for more than 40 years and currently operate Socalo in Santa Monica and Border Grill, with locations at LAX Terminal B and Las Vegas’s Mandalay Bay. 

“Mary Sue and I both worked in French kitchens early on, and at that time, women were mostly put into prep positions, and we worked alongside a lot of guys from Mexico,” Feniger said in a previous interview.

Alice B. departs from those flavor profiles, drawing inspiration from the Mediterranean and seasonal California ingredients. 

Velasquez, named one of the 10 best new American chefs by Food & Wine, leads the kitchen. He draws inspiration from his tenure at prestigious northern California restaurants like Chateau Souverain and Campton Place and his mastery of the legendary baked goods at Callie’s Hot Little Biscuit in Charleston, South Carolina. 

The current menu, which will evolve seasonally, celebrates local farmers and ranchers with sharable items like cornmeal cheddar drop biscuits, grilled California asparagus with romesco, and a bracingly fresh yellowfin amberjack crudo. Large plates like plancha-seared pork shoulder and a grilled prime ribeye with crispy fingerling potatoes are the perfect fuel for a Coachella Valley hike.

The restaurant’s setting fittingly references Palm Springs’ mid-century modern aesthetic, accented with large format works by locale female and LGBTQ+ artists. More than just a dining spot, Alice B. is a labor of love.

“Curating welcoming restaurants that bring people together over food has long been our passion,” Feniger said. “Mary Sue and I have spent many years in Palm Springs with our family and friends and have always loved the area. We want this to be a place where guests can come, feel comfortable, enjoy delicious meals and drinks with their loved ones. 

What’s even more special is that this restaurant represents an ode to the love Alice B. and Gertrude Stein shared, a feeling that will engulf you the moment you walk in and take you back to their impressive life together. Our hope is Alice B. will feel like your home away from home that you’ll want to return to time and time again.” 

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